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Last page update was 07 Mar 2007

Fisher Fury Build Progress - September 2006

1st September

Another month gone by. At the end of this one it will have been about 11 months of building. My initial target was a rather optimistic 8 months. I simply didn't expect so many things to get in the way and I completely forgot to factor in some long holidays. Progress has been slow for the last month since I've also been painting all the windows and the roof line on the house.

Given the list of jobs left to do, I reckon that an SVA in October is possible. I'd hoped to drive it on the road before winter sets in . Gives me time over winter to get the geometry and corner weighting done, plus the stripes on the bodywork though.

Boot Floor Preparation

Drilled holes to fix the boot floor to the chassis. Before I do this though, I need to finish up underneath it. Also trimmed the side walls to get the main tub to sit better and slightly lower.

Checked all the bolts and added white paint mark to them so that I can easily see if they have moved. This is especially important on the diff bolts as these are well hidden and need to be checked easily.

Rear Electrics

Added high-level brake light wiring through boot floor. Spiral wrapped all wiring and fixed the rear connector. To ensure a good earth I've paralleled up any spare pins as an earth through the connector. I've also crimped and soldered all connector pins.

2nd September

Rear Lights & Electrics

Fixed the rear lights in place on the main tub and created the wiring sub-loom. I used the Screwfix equivalent of 'No More Nails' because this brand is for exterior use, is waterproof and is also suitable for fixing plastics. I used a plastics 'Superglue' to fix some tie-wrap posts to the bodywork, to hold the sub-loom in place.

I've yet to add the connector and fog light but, I've left spade terminals in for connecting up my Lite N Boltz (number plate lights) later.

3rd September

Finished wiring and connectors for the rear lights.

5th September

My grille mesh arrived.

6th September

Whilst doing a final check over before fixing the boot floor, I noticed that the rear upper wishbone is making contact with the chassis mounting bracket. I'd heard the odd squeak whilst pushing the car in and out of the garage but thought nothing of it.

Having spoken to Martin, it appears that the chassis brackets were made slightly larger to improve the weld area and hence the strength but, this has the side effect of reducing the clearance and in my case it's closed the gap. I'm going to have to remove a few millimetres from the bracket at this point and Hammerite over the modified part. I had to do a similar job earlier in the build to get clearance for my Nitron shocks/springs on the rear.

This is a good example of why you need to think about which way the suspension bolts should be fitted. As it is, the rear bolts in this case can only come out one way because of the fuel tank location. The same would have been true of the front bolt, if the rear bulkhead interior panel had been fitted.

7th September

My front lights arrived. Marked the 160mm holes for the headlight on the bonnet. The actual shells are nearer to 200mm in diameter, so I used a 200mm template to centre them. There is not a lot of room around them.

Created a template for the front grille and marked the cut-out on the bodywork.

9th September

Set about modifying the suspension bracket by marking the area to be removed with a marker pen.

Used a multi-tool to grind away the metal and the filed it up to a nice finish before covering with Hammerite. In retrospect I should have used a black powder coat on my chassis and just painted the roll hoops to the desired blue colour, as they are just about the only bit you can see.

Feels like I've been going backwards for the last few days. Time to move things forward again. I can't do many of the jobs I wanted to do this weekend, as I failed to find some aluminium sheet for the various things I need to fabricate.

10th September

Very little done this weekend as I spent most of it painting the house.

Rear Lights Testing

Put the main tub back on the car to test the rear lights and wiring. One odd thing with the Hella LED rings is that the black wire is positive and the brown wire is negative. I was dubious about the quality of the connector, so much so in fact, that I bought a larger, more robust one for the front (with 6.3mm spade lugs) as it has to carry high currents. I was right to be dubious. The rear lights worked intermittently at best. I'm going to have to cut them off and do it again. Another step backward .

I trimmed the boot floor side walls to get the main tub to sit better so I thought I'd check the rear wheel clearance. Trimming the boot floor any further will not help, because the lower part of the main tub is sitting on the chassis rails. The car looks a little bit 'jacked up' but, the ride height is set fairly high for the SVA test. I will lower the car slightly after the SVA test, to better fill the wheel arches. Having said that, compared to normal cars (even my old Lotus Elise), this car is seriously low. You don't need doors because you can just step into it.

I also centred the main tub over the rear wheels. I did this by putting a piece of wood vertically against the tyre side walls and checked the bodywork overlapped the wood by equal amounts on each side (about 10mm). This is the view looking straight down and proves that my wheels (13 x 6 ET23 with 10mm spacer) will pass the SVA test and sit within the plan of the bodywork. This also bodes well for the use of 7" rims after the SVA test.

Side Pods

Had a go at measuring the side pods up against the car and it is clear that not only will I have to make cuts-outs to go around the side impact protection but, I'm also going to have to trim them down by quite a bit. The red line in the picture is about 180mm. This measurement on the side pod is nearer to 250mm, which means that if the inner edge was flush against the chassis rail, it would stick out far too much.

I'm going to have to make an MDF template for each side, to get the side pod top face cut correctly. I need to get the bonnet on the car before I can do this though. I need to make the air filter plate before I can get the bonnet on. I can see that this bit of the bodywork is going to take much longer than I had originally thought but, it has to be done properly. [Correction - see entry for the 12th]

11th September

Collected some 1.5mm aluminium sheet from my local aluminium fabricators. Finally, a few things can progress. All I need now is some free time!

Air Filter Plate

Using my air box as a template, I cut out my air filter plate and then drilled four 50mm holes for the trumpets/rubber clamps. I used some card and the old air box to make a template. If you are wondering why the air filter plate is white, it's because this particular off-cut came powder coated on one side.

Added a hole (not shown in picture) for the air temperature sensor to bolt through (sits inside air filter). This has an odd thread pitch, so I'm going to have to find a nut to fit it [12mm with 1.5mm thread pitch].

Air Filter

Ordinarily, the air filter clamps down and around an odd shaped plate with various holes and lugs. A strip of foam on the underside seals it to the plate. Because my plate is larger and not shaped or has the right holes, the filter housing sits on top of the plate and the foam strip does not form a proper seal. I've fixed this by adding some deeper closed cell foam to provide the seal and I'm bolting it straight on top of the plate, with five 5mm bolts through the various plastic lugs.

My air box has a 15mm internal lip and sits around the edge of this plate (with a foam strip seal) and be bolted through to hold it in place. I'm going to also use these bolts to fix some nylon p-clips to the underside of the filter plate, to support the throttle cable.

12th September

Side Pods

Looks like fitting the side pods is going to be slightly easier than I thought. I thought something was odd and a quick e-mail to Tim Hoverd  confirmed it. When I finally get the bonnet near the car, it will be obvious that they go the other way around and the widest end goes at the front of the car! This results in far less work than I had imagined .

This is definitely one of the plus points in building a Fury. There is loads of information, many fellow builders and experienced racers out on the Internet to assist when needed (this web site is my bit to add to the collective knowledge). Fisher Sportscars  are also very good at responding and answering queries and question by e-mail and by phone.


The advice from Tim Hoverd  (who has fitted lots of bodywork to Fury's) is to get all the bodywork on the car and taped together, to check the positioning before you cut anything. To get the side pods on the car, I have to cut out around the side impact protection though. I'm going to make a template for each side (from 3mm MDF), using the side pods as a template. First things first though, I put the bonnet on the car, to assess the scale of the challenge ahead.

As you can see, it is not sitting quite low enough at the front but, this is because I've got too many rags on top of the front suspension supporting the front of the bonnet. Secondly, it is fairly close at the front edge of the wheel arch to the tyre. This is where Tim's advice comes in because I'm going to need to shuffle the bodywork as a whole forward about 20-30mm. I'm going to have to trim the back edge of the boot floor first though, because at the moment it is preventing this.

Now it is starting to look like a car!

Popped round top a friends house this evening to look at his Shelsley T2  build. I learnt something new about GRP today. His GRP has a few marks on it but he has been simply rubbing them away with 1200 and 1800 grade wet and dry paper and then using T-Cut to get back the shine on the GRP. I'd simply assumed that the few odd marks on my bodywork are part of the kitcar experience but, it would appear that I can get an even better finish than I have now. So far, I've been using '3M Imperial Hand Glaze' and Harly Wax on the bodywork and it has come up really well. I will experiment later on a bit of the GRP that is out of sight, to see how well this approach removes the odd mark or two.

Had to bolt the roll hoops in, as there is no easy way to move the car in this condition. I could really do with some temporary bolts in place, to fix the bonnet to the bonnet hinges. The only place I can store the bonnet now is on the car.

13th September

Side Pods

Having made the templates for the top of the side pods, I measured and marked them up, then cut out the bits that foul the side impact protection rails. On the left side, I also had to make a cut around the exhaust manifold. I put them up against the car to check they 'worked' and then used them to mark and cut the required shapes out of the side pods. This approach worked really well even if it did take me over an hour. I found the gel-coat on the side pods splintered a little bit, so I cut close to the marked line with a fine bladed jigsaw and then filed up to the line, using a rotary file on a multi-tool. This gives a much neater finish as it spins at such a high speed.

With all the bodywork on the car I can start to look at the tricky task of alignment:

I'm going to have to take all the bodywork off again for the next few jobs but, before I do I thought I might as well cut some holes in the bonnet ...


Cutting holes is fibreglass is a messy job so, I taped some plastic in behind the lights to contain the dust and stop it going all over the engine bay. I don't have a 160mm hole cutter and I couldn't get a jigsaw in close enough, so I used a new tool, something called a drill saw . This just happens to be one of the cleanest ways I've found to cut fibreglass, as it generates little fine dust. I tidied and enlarged out the holes using a rotary file, which generates plenty of dust! To minimise this I keep my garage vacuum cleaner nozzle close to the rotary file as I use it.

16th September

Front Grille

Taped some plastic in behind the grille to contain the dust again. I've marked this out already. Used the same approach as above. I'm still thinking about how best to fit the front grille mesh. I've left a 10mm lip on which to mount it from the outside though. This seems to align well with the radiator and show allow good air flow through it.

Headlight Fixing

Two of the headlight adjustment screws on the headlight nest go back through the bodywork, just outside of the main hole cut in the bodywork, so these have to be drilled out (8mm). Once I'd got each light positioned I used the nest as a template for the four 5mm fixing holes. The nest comes with some stainless-steel self tapping screws and some rear fixing plates to go behind the bodywork but, I used 5mm x 16mm long stainless-steel button head bolts with nylocs as these feel more secure to me.

The adjustment bits will be covered by two outer rings, which I don't have yet. These only appear to come in chrome, which is slightly annoying. I'll see what they look like and if I don't like them, I'll get them powder coated in black.

Removed all of the bodywork to allow me to continue with the next few jobs.

Boot Floor

Trimmed the boot floor rear edge back to the chassis rail.

17th September

Managed to grab odd five minutes in between house painting jobs today ...

Rear Lights

Removed the old connectors and tested the wiring was working as expected before I put the new connectors on. They all seemed to be working so I attached the new connectors.

Front Indicators

These are fixed on with bluetack for now. I wanted to see what they look like on the car. I don't like them but, something like this is required to pass the SVA test. I'd rather have round lights on the lower indentation but to be honest, these are a bit low to be safe.

Lite N Boltz

Drilled some 8mm holes for my bolts with in-built number plate lamps. I might have to swap these out for normal bolts to get through the SVA test.

Fog Light

My foglight will go low down, in the center of the rear vertical. I want to mount it flush with the bodywork but, I was not sure that I could cut a nice, tidy hole in the bodywork. The light is 52mm in diameter and I've got a 51mm hole saw. I cut a test hole in one of the spare bits left over when I cut holes for the headlights, to test the idea out. It seems to work pretty well but, the bodywork seems thinner at the back of the car. I had to use some fine grade wet and dry paper to enlarge the hole fraction, to get a snug fit.

When I'm feeling brave, I will cut the hole in the rear bodywork. But not yet, because this light is not E-marked and will not pass the SVA test, so I'm going to need to find something that will for now.

18th September

Popped round to my local nut and bolt store (Suffolk Fasteners) to get some fixings I need to continue.

19th September

Boot Floor Rear Wall

Cut out a template to check size, then cut from 1.5mm aluminium sheet and folded the edges. One thing I've noticed is that if I fix this in the car, then not going to be able to reach all the rear lights to change the bulbs. I will have to cut out some holes to make sure I can.


The outer rings arrived for my headlights. These sit on a lip at the top of the light and a screw holds them in place at the bottom. The trouble is, the bodywork is in the way under the light so I'm going to have to use a shorter screw. The lights came with a rubber gasket which sits between the bodywork and the nest. I did think about leaving this off as it didn't seem to server much purpose but, I can now see that the outer chrome ring seals up against it.

Now I've seen these on the car, they look OK but I still have a preferrence to powder coat them in black.

23rd September

Rear View Mirror

Fabricated and painted a mount for my rear-view mirror.

24th September

Boot Floor Wall

Cut out the boot rear wall from some aluminium sheet and folded it to fit. Drilled holes to mount it to the GRP boot floor. Added a rubber grommit to protect the fuel tank vent pipe. I've bolted this to the GRP for now, until I'm happy with the positioning.

29th September


Tested out the rest of the wiring for the lights to make sure they work correctly. My foot brake switch works but I need to find a good way to mount it.

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