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The front lamps provide high beam, low beam and side lights. My preferred solution is to use a quality, Wipac |
| The lamps need a mounting shell (ref. 5400) and some outer rims (ref. 5445). Unfortuntely these come in a chrome finish only, so I'm going to have to get them powder coated in black. |
| I would like to use an LED lamp if possible but I've yet to find anything suitable. The other problem is that the flasher unit expects to see a 21W load and anything less will cause the flash rate to be too high. You can't mount these in the obvious location (the indentations under the main lights on the bodywork) as they will not be high enough to pass the SVA test. |
| These have to go on the car something like this. I don't like this at all though. I'm going to put these lamps on for the SVA test, with a single small hole for the fixing and wiring. I'm then going to remove them and add some round indicators in the indentations under he headlights. The maximum diameter lights that will fit in these indentations is 60mm but something nearer to 50mm will be a better fit. |
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I'm using Hella 55mm lights from Premier Wiring Systems
SVA Requirements
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I'm using the same Hella 55mm lights as above but these have a 581 bulb fitment. Post SVA I will fit LED bulbs
SVA Requirements
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I'm using Hella 55mm LED light surrounds from Premier Wiring Systems |
| A high-level LED brake light is a good idea, possibly mounted to the roll bar. I plan to use the same lamp as for my fog light. |
| The side indicators are standard Ford Fiesta equivalents in clear lens and orange 5W bulb. I bought mine on eBay. |
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Typically, the fog lamps sits on the small bulge on the bodywork, which ensures it is vertical for the SVA test. I don't like this so I'm going to go for a 52mm diameter recessed LED lamp. This one is £9.99 from Maplin
SVA Requirements
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SVA Requirements
Must be less than 400mm from edge of car.
Must be at a height of 350mm or more.
Must be atleast 600mm part.
| This is basically dictated by the SVA requirements but there is a fair degree of flexibility in positioning. This picture shows roughly, what I'm trying to achieve. By sheer luck, as I've positioned the rear lights, they will not foul the boot floor side walls. Access for changing the bulbs is going to be hard though. One thing to note is that the lights must go on a relatively flat surface and this limits how close to the edge of the car you can get. All of my rear lights are going to have clear lenses. |
Basically, you need the missing 22W (LED bulbs are rated at about 1W) of load to go through a resistor in parallel to keep the flash rate correct. You would need a resistor rated at 22W continous load if the indicator was on all the time. It actually flashes at or near a 50% duty cycle, so the actual power being dissipated by the resistor is about 11W. At 12V you need a 6.5ohm resistor to get a 22W load.
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