I really haven't driven the car for months :-( The weather this winter has been terrible, really cold and snow through February and early March. The battery has been taken out of the car and charged occasionally.
|Looking at the connector on the new alternator (with the locking tab at the top), I numbered the pins 1 to 3, from left to right. The resistances measured between pins were using a multimeter were: 1-2 = 0.4Ω, 2-3 = 0.4Ω and 1-3 = 0.4Ω. These are not accurate though. Multimeters simply aren't designed to measure resistances this low so you need to use a Volt and Ampere meter method .|
|When measuring the resistance of of the stator coils I put this 25W 12Ω resistor in series with the coil to allow me to limit the current through it. I then applied a voltage using a bench power supply (approximately 12V) and adjusted the voltage until the current was exactly 1.000 amps. I then used a second multimeter to measure the voltage across the stator pins. Because V = I x R and I = 1.000, the voltage measured is also the resistance in ohms. In all three cases the resistance measured was 0.193 ohms.|
I now need to duplicate these measurements on the old alternator/stator.
The Fury passed its MOT this morning :-) I had to drive to the testing station and back in the pouring rain, wearing my motorcycle helmet :-(
Apart from the usual pre-checks, I noticed one of the rear number plate lights had failed. These are stainless-steel bolts with integrated 12V bulbs . The bulb was just held in by silicon sealant.
I replaced it with a white LED (filed down to fit inside the 5mm diameter hole). Im using a 1KΩ resistor to limit the current. Will probably do the other one to match, before that bulb fails too. They have survived 11 years which is pretty good for a filament bulb.
Rather annoyingly, a stone punched a whole in the front left head light on the way to the testing station. I had planned to replace the front lights with full LED units later this year anyway though.