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Last page update was 05 Dec 2004

Fisher Fury Build Progress - November 2004

2nd November

Popped into my local Pirtek  store and bought a 5/16" compression coupling to 8mm nozzle, for the fuel inlet pipe/hose join. Not quite what I was expecting but one easy modification later, I had exactly what I wanted.

Been finalising the cooling sytem design and parts list. Ordered a Rizoma tank from M&P. Also popped into Orwell Motorcycles  to order an additional T-piece to fit this tank into the cooling system.

5th November

Well my Rizoma tank arrived today. You don't get much for your £30! To say it is smaller than expected would be an understatement. There are several plus sides to this though. At 40mm high and 30mm in diameter it is going to be the smallest and lightest header tank (only 40g) in the history of kit cars. It also has a good rubber seal and a perfect sized 7mm inlet. It is also very well made, complete with a stainless-steel mounting bracket.

Dropped into Orwell Motorcycles  to pick up my T-piece.

8th November

Bought a Pipercross PX600 C6002 box filter from PiperXonline  for £56.21. Not the cheapest place initially but it was after I negotiated free delivery.

11th November

My filter arrived so I have now measured it, and designed and made up some moulds for my air box. I've bought some fibre-glass matting and resin from my local yacht chandlers, to have a go at constructing one. This should be interesting as I've never worked with fibre-glass before. Found some useful guidance on the Internet though.

14th November

Made up a mould for the air box bottom half. To get a nice radius on the bottom half edge, I've used silicon sealant on the inside edges of the mould. The top half will be similar but with a much larger radius, acheived using some filler. The bottom half also has a large whole cut in the centre in which the air filter sits on the aluminium base plate. I've used a white spray gloss paint on the inside surface to act as a release agent. The final thing (if it all works out) will be sprayed flame red (I've got the paint left over from a previous task).

Also fitted the 20% stiffer race clutch spring today, which took about 15 minutes to do. The clutch cover is removed by removing the eight 5mm allen-bolts. One was thread-locked in and was very hard to undo. Once removed the cover should just pull off. I was careful not to damage the gasket as I wanted to re-use it. Fitting this cover back on is a harder job, as the 'pull lever shaft' (the toothed thing in the middle of the picture below) must be correctly seated. I removed the filler plug so I could look down inside to line it up. The bolts are torqed to 12Nm which is lower than any torque wrench goes that I own, so I guessed the torque. 12Nm is ridiculously low and is dead easy to exceed with a spanner so I use a screw driver with a hex bit and small sockets.

The clutch spring is removed by removing the six 10mm bolts through the clutch spring retainer. The new spring looked identical to the old one! Be careful not to dislodge the spring plate seat or to touch the new clutch plate surfaces. The new spring must have the tongues lined up or it won't seat correctly. The bolts are torqued to 8Nm.

20th November

Made up the first half of the airbox with fibre-glass matting and resin. The latter is very nasty stuff and kills and removes skin on contact. Good job I bought a large box of latex gloves before hand. Even so, I touched the resin to see if it had set and ended up with a blister and three layers of skin missing from the end of my finger. It seems to be taking longer to set than I expected. Either I didn't add enough hardening agent or it is too cold in my garage.

23rd November

Checked the airbox again this morning and it seems to have set. Will attempt to liberate it from the mould later today.

28th November

The air box or rather the first half of it, has come out better than expected. Not done half as much as I wanted to do this month :-(

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