RJC Fury R1 Design Build Drive Gallery Video Contact Me Misc
Last page update was 05 Apr 2006

Fisher Fury Build Progress - March 2006

1st March

I'm dissapointed that I failed last months goal (to get the engine going) but I'm close. May be less than two weeks away from it. This is purely down to being diverted to higher priority projects, namely the ensuite bathroom


My schedule is still:

Jobs To Do This Month

2nd March

Having got as far as I can with the car loom, I started to look at the bike wiring loom. I've stripped this down and I've got wires everywhere. Even with a degree in electrical and electronic engineering, it initially looks like a daunting task. It's only when you start to track down the wires in the R1 wiring diagram (PDF) that it all starts to come clear.

You can also remove a lot of the wiring loom. I reckon that about half of the wiring in the wiring diagram is not required at all, in my installation. As I remove wires, I'm putting crosses through the wires on the wiring diagram to keep track of what I've cut out.

ECU & Rectifier

I started by positioning the ECU and rectifier in the scuttle area. It is from here that the loom will start and I can see that some bits will need to be extended but not many. The reason for starting here is simply that most of the wires go into the ECU and this will minimise the amount of work required.

Main Fuse Box

I positioned the main fuse box as this needs to be accessible. Whilst I had it to hand, I removed the fuses for the signals and horn [64] and headlight [65].

Power & Earth

The Fury has an earth point in the engine bay, just above the passenger footwell. A battery earth lead goes to this point (I re-used the one on the engine as it was the right length). I bought a new and longer lead, to go from the engine to this earth point.

I've made up my own power lead from the battery for the car loom. The one on the bike loom is very short, so I bought a new one to go to the battery positive terminal.


I started with this bit of the loom as it is an easy bit! The fan [68] is controlled by the ECU, via a relay [67] and I'm re-using this bit of the wiring. There is also a 15A fuse [66] in the main fuse box.

Multifunction Meter

I'm not using this but there are loads of wires going to the connectors for it. I started with connector [41] and managed to trace back and remove all of the wires to it. The exceptions are the two wires for the clutch switch [45], which need to be shorted together.

Fuel Pump

On the R1, there are two connectors for this. One is the power to the pump [12], the other is the fuel level sensor. I traced the level sensors wires back to connector [B] and removed them. The red/blue wire needs to go to my fuel pump, which is earthed at the back of the car.

4th March

My package arrived from Vehicle Wiring Products  and I've finished the car loom. I've put in all the required wires, comms cables and co-ax for the in-car video and have taped it all up and spiral wrapped the bits that I've tested. Still got a little bit more testing and wrapping to do. One thing I noticed is that the DD2 comes with its own cable for the speed sensor.

I've had to run loads of earth wires and I've also put a new earth point in behind the radiator for the fan, horns, etc. The horns were the first electrical item in my car to work. They do do not get a good enough earth through the brackets and chassis though, so I've run a seperate cable to my new earth point.

One thing I've just noticed is that the modified handbrake I got back from The Kit Car Workshop  is not the one I gave them to modify and the one I have now is missing the electric switch. I'm going to have to see what I can do to add one.

Oh, and the ensuite bathroom saga draws close to an end. Only the tiling and grouting left to do. Can't wait!

5th March

Mainly testing today, sticking bulbs on the ends of the wires and checking they come on and go off when they should do. Found one wiring mistake in all my testing but everything else seems to work as expected.

Despite adding an earth for the twins horns, they still warble slightly. I'm wondering if they are simply not mounted solidly enough. Also started adding wires for all the engine sensors to the Digidash. Not quite sure how to earth all of them though.

6th March

Having completed testing of the car loom, I installed the Digidash and connected up the main beam, fog, fuel level and indicator warning lights. There is something very satisfying in watching the Digidash go through its start up sequence .

7th March

Finished off the fuel system. I need to test this for leaks, so I've put a drip tray under the fuel tank/pump and put a gallon of fuel in the tank. I will connect the two fuel pipes together in the engine bay and run the pump to check fuel gets pumped up to the engine bay and comes back down the return line OK. This last bit will be done outside, just to be on the safe side.

The transparent filter is a temporary measure until I'm sure I've got all the junk out of the tank.

8th March

I've wired in an on-off-on (I've got one spare) switch (hidden under the dash), so that I can have some say over the fuel pump operation. It can be under bike ECU control, permanently off, or permanently on. This is useful for testing as well as being an additional security measure.

I put some fuel in the tank and it immediately started to drip onto the floor. The tank outlet is a banjo connector and I had to do it up much tighter to stop the leak. I then powered up the pump to check fuel flow. The pump seems to push fuel down to the engine bay at a decent rate and I reckon it would empty a full tank in less than 3 minutes. The DigiDash registers 0% with an empty tank and I got it up to 10%, before I'd emptied my jerry can. I'll do a full-level test when I got some more fuel.

Put the Optimate III charger onto the battery as the Digidash was registering 12.5V, which seems a bit low. I have been doing lots of testing though. I really need to check current drain with the ignition off, just to make sure I've not put something in circuit that is going to drain the battery. I'll check the voltage level tomorrow, when the battery is fully charged.

9th March

For reference, the fully charged battery voltage is 12.9V on the Digidash. Spent more time trying to untangle the bike wiring loom. Also spray painted some of the paddle shift lever bits.

Water Pressure Sensor

Wired up the water temperature sensor. This needs a 10mm ring with solder tab and I just happened to have one spare in my garage. I need to find another one for the oil pressure sensor though.

11th March

Handbrake Switch

Having investigated further, it is going to be very easy to fit a standard micro-switch to the handbrake to control the handbrake warning light on the Digidash. This needs to connect the control wire to earth when the handbrake is not fully off. The brake fluid warning light is connected in parallel in a similar manner, so that either of them will operate the brake warning light.

I don't know what the handbrake is made of but, I was unable to drill holes in it. I ended up sticking the switch on with Araldite.

Oil Pressure Sensor

The location of this is restricted by the remote hose. It needs to be earthed. I mounted and earthed a bracket on the footwell bulkhead and used a hose clip to hold onto the mount. There are two wires from this sensor to the Digidash.

12th March

Just need to connect up the oil temp sensor and the tacho feed and my Digidash wiring is complete. I've got one unused wire, which I put in to drive a brake sense input but, this is not required on the DD2 Lite.

Wired up the oil temperature sensor. I had to use another 10mm ring but I also needed a couple of 10mm washers, as the sensor would not go far enough into the adaptor to clamp the earth tab.

As you can see, all electrical connection are crimped, soldered and covered with heat-shrink. It takes time but should make things much more reliable in the long run.

Clutch Pedal

Modified the clutch pedal with an angle grinder to remove the two end 'forks'. I need to mount the clutch cable higher up the pedal and these are in right the wrong place.

13th March

Neutral Switch

Wired up the neutral switch to the DD2. I can't seem to get the AUX light to come on, when the engine is in neutral. I'm pretty sure, this is because it needs configuring to do this though. Having said that, selecting neutral is very hard, when the engine is not running. I used a continuity tester and proved that the neutral switch is working correctly though.

14th March

DigiDash2 Lite

Installed the configuration software on my laptop to create a configuration to upload onto the DD2 unit. Then I remembered that there is no serial port on my laptop :-( In fact, there is no serial port any modern laptop that I know of. I managed to find my old laptop in the loft. It's not networked and is running Windows 98 but, it does have a serial port. It's very simple to configure the DD2 unit and I now have a working neutral light.

Bike Wiring Loom

Making real progress with the bike loom now:

Fuel Inlet Pipe

The R1 engine comes with a snap-on plastic fuel inlet pipe that presumably connects onto a similar connector on the fuel tank. This plastic pipe is rubber covered.

If you remove the safety catch on the engine end and sneeze the grey release buttons on the connector, this plastic pipe comes off to reveal a metal inlet pipe (a bit blurry in this photo). You could connect the rubber fuel pipe to this as it has a convenient beading on it but, it points down at an inconvenient angle.

Following advice from the Bike Engined Cars Group , I removed the rubber layer and then cut the plastic pipe off the plastic connector at the engine end of the pipe, to reveal a 90° connector with beading. This gives a better angle for my rubber fuel pipe to connect to.

15th March

Air Filter & Air Box

I've got a Pipercross air filter to go on the car and I've make a custom airbox but, to get the engine going I'm reverting back to the R1 airbox and filter. This won't fit under the bonnet but it will allow me to get the engine running earlier. It also has all the right connectors and sensor mounting points. It looks slightly ridiculous on the car.

16th March

Bike Wiring Loom

And that's the bike loom pretty much complete. I've got a few things to sort out and then I can place everything and wrap it all up (once I've checked the engine runs!):

25th March

Been away, so zero progress for a while. Bought a USB serial adaptor  so I can use my current laptop with the Digidash.

Today, I hope to try and get to a point, where I can:

If only ...

31st March

No progress at all this week as I've been laid up with food poisoning.

RJC Fury R1 Design Build Drive Gallery Video Contact Me Misc
Copyright © Robert Collingridge 2004