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| This is the bike loom as it was delivered. Some sensors are attached, that were connected to the bodywork. It took me about 90 minutes to go through and label up all the connectors and identify stuff I could remove from this loom. About half of the wiring is redundant in a car installation as I will have seperate wiring for the lights, horn, fuel pump, etc. |
| The first thing you need is this wiring diagram from the service manual. For ease of use/download, I've separated it out into its own, one-page PDF document (153Kbytes). This is clear and usable when printed on an A3 colour laser printer. |
| This is the Haynes version of the wiring loom as a large JPG file. It's better in some respects as it puts stuff into better perspective but it is not totally accurate in my view. |
There are seven sub-harness connectors labelled A to G on the circuit diagram:
I've stuck with numbering and naming convention from the service manual:
01 - Main Switch
A 2-pole switch with two seperate connectors to it. One pole switches power to all circuits, the other operates some of the starter circuit logic. You can permanently connect together the blue-black and blue-yellow wires. This means a standard single pole key-switch will work for as a main switch.
02 - AC Magneto (Alternator)
Mounted on the engine, grey connector, 3 pins.
03 - Rectifier
| Black connector, 3 pins, 2 wires, thick red + thick black. On a bike, the rectifier is well placed to keep it cool. In a car it needs to be placed with thought. Mounting on an aluminium plate/heatsink with thermal transfer compound is a must. Many people also add a fan to keep it cool. It weighs 315g. |
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This is required on a car and is a fairly bulky thing to hide in the engine bay. It is required to get the engine running properly and can be simulated electrically to save weight. JB Racing  sell a replacement module but it is £84 and that's a lot of money to replace 415g with something weighing slightly less. There is also a circuit shown here .
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It is possible to run the engine with this disconnected but the ignitor unit senses the servomotor assembly missing, it generates a 'tach diagnostic' of the form that causes the tach needle to 'jump' between actual engine rpm, then to zero rpm, then 7000 rpm and repeat this sequence continuously. This tach diagnostic has been termed as the 'Tach Tango'. Samanna Systems have done a few tests and applied a 7.5K resistor in place of the EXUP motor unit and got better results but they also sell an emulator that results in no error codes when the R1 clocks are used.
The resistor solution is to connect a 7.5K ohm resistor between the black/red and the white/red wires from the R1 wire harness, which previously connected to the servomotor assembly. This will then eliminate the tach diagnostic except for when 1) The ignition key is in the 'ON' position and the engine is not running for a period of time greater than 12 seconds. 2) With engine idling, 'coasting' with the clutch lever pulled in. This is good enough for me as I'm not using the R1 clocks.
19 - Speed Sensor
The speed sensor is fixed to the engine block but this is the only sensor I've found where the wiring colours don't match the diagram. They should be black/blue + white + blue/yellow but they are actually pink + orange/red + black/white. The wiring loom has a white triangular connector, 3 pins, 3 wires, blue + blue/black + white/yellow. Required by ECU from what I can see but other owners say it is only required if you use the R1 clocks.
20 - Lean Angle Cut-Off Switch
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This causes the ECU to cut the engine when the bike falls over. It is marked with 'UP' on one side, to ensure it is correctly orientated (but it doesn't stop you mounting it facing front/rear by mistake). It only weighs 30g but I wanted to remove it or disable it because it could be triggered by the g-forces of cornering (or braking/accelerating if you mount it wrongly) and could cut the engine mid-corner, with potentially disastrous results. It has three pins/wires to it (I'm assuming +12v, GND and a sense wire). Opening this sensor up reveals a small circuit board with a hall effect IC and a semi-circular pendulum with a magnet bonded within it. To disable its operation, I've simply glued the pendulum in place. I will now mount it as intended and leave it connected in the loom.
There are many people that replace it successfully with a 470ohm resistor between the yellow/green and black/blue wires. |
| The air pressure sensor is mounted on the throttle bodies. |
| This is required and is found on the underside of the airbox (bottom left corner on photo). Requires a 17mm spanner to remove. |
My solution to this is to use an LM311 comparator and a pair of voltage dividers to monitor the resistance and compare it to a reference voltage. The first voltage divider is adjustable but typically results in a voltage around 1.8V at point B. This is compared to the voltage at point A, which depends on the oil level sensor. When full this has a resistance of about 500ohms and thus point A is at 2.2V. As it empties it falls to around 125ohms and point A is then at 0.645V. This change is detected by the comparator and switches on the 12V red LED. The exact changeover point is adjustable via the 10K potentiometer. Through trial and measurement the potentiometer can be replaced with a fixed resistor. If the resistance of the sensor needs to be detected at around 400ohms then the variable resistor would need to be about 6800ohms.
There is no hysteresis designed in as I want a fast and responsive warning to a major failure. This is a backup system to the oil pressure sensor and the alarm facility on the Digidash. In order to stop it triggering on track days, the switch on point will be set relatively low.
40 - Turn Signal Relay
Small black box. Can be removed as it is not used in my design.
41 - Left Handle Bar Switch
Not present and not required. White connector, 10 pins, 9 wires. This would connect 43, 44, 45 and 46 to the main harness if I had it. 45 is the clutch switch and needs to be emulated for the engine to start.
42 - Multi-function Meter
Not present and not required. It's a shame the engine warning light is not exposed to the wiring loom from this as I would have liked to see this replicated on my dash.
43 - Dimmer Switch
Not present and not required. Part of the left handlebar switch assembly (41).
44 - Horn Switch
Not present and not required. Car wiring loom and dash switch supports this function. Part of the left handlebar switch assembly (41).
45 - Clutch Switch
Not present and not required. Connected to main loom via 41 and is not present. I will need to short the pins to enable the engine to start. Part of the left handlebar switch assembly (41).
46 - Turn Signal Switch
Not present and not required. Car wiring loom supports for this function. Part of the left handlebar switch assembly (41).
47 - Front Turn Signal Light (Left)
Not present and not required. Car wiring loom supports for this function.
48 - Front Turn Signal Light (Right)
Not present and not required. Car wiring loom supports for this function.
49 - Rear Turn Signal Light (Left)
Not present and not required. Car wiring loom supports for this function.
50 - Front Turn Signal Light (Right)
Not present and not required. Car wiring loom supports for this function.
51 - Horn
Not present and not required. Two shrouded 90° spades, 2 wires, black + pink. Could use this wiring but not thick enough to handle my intended horn, so I'll remove this wiring from my loom.
52 - Auxiliary Light
Not present, on sub-harness A.
53 - Head Light
Not present, on sub-harness A.
54 - Licence Plate Light
Not present, on sub-harness C.
55 - Tail/Brake Light
Not present and not required. White triangular connector, 3 pins, 3 wires, yellow + black + blue/red. Not used.
56 - Rear Brake Switch
Not present and not required. Brown connector, 2 pins, 2 wires, brown + yellow.
57 - Right Handle Bar Switch
Not present and not required. Blue connector, 6 pins, 6 wires. This would connect 58, 59 and 60 to the main harness if I had it. 59 is the engine kill switch and 60 is the start switch which need to be connected to my dash switches.
58 - Front Brake Switch
Not present and not required. Handle bar mounted switch, not present and not required.
59 - Engine Stop Switch
Handle bar mounted switch, not present and not required. These wires will be shorted to leave the engine in permanent 'run' state and the engine will be switched off via the main ignition switch (1). In the bike loom, normal operation is to switch power to the the starter circuit cut-off relay (10) and the spark plugs (15).
60 - Start Switch
Not present and not required. This is replaced by the dash mounted, engine start button. It connects the starter circuit cut-off relay (10) to ground and if all the other conditions are met, this then grounds the negative side of the starter relay (8), thus starting the engine.
61 - Head Light Relay (On/Off)
Not required. Car wiring loom supports this function.
62 - Head Light Relay (Dimmer)
Not required. Car wiring loom supports this function.
63 - Fuse (Ignition)
15A fuse in main fuse box. Required.
64 - Fuse (Signal)
10A fuse in main fuse box. Will be removed. This powers the indicators, the horn and brake lights.
65 - Fuse (Headlight)
20A fuse in main fuse box. Will be removed.
66 - Fuse (Fan Motor)
15A fuse in main fuse box. This will be used as the fan is controlled by the ECU. I'm taking a sense lead from this to an LED on the dash.
67 - Fan Motor Relay
White connector into black relay housing, 4 pins, brown/green + blue + red/white + green/yellow. This will be used as the fan is controlled by the ECU.
68 - Fan Motor
Black connector, 2 pins, 2 wires, medium black + medium blue. This feed/control comes from the ECU, via the fan relay is required and needs to be extended to reach the R1 fan at the front of the car. I extended the blue wire. The fan is earthed at the front of the car.
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