RJC Fury R1 Design Build Drive Gallery Video Contact Me Misc
Last page update was 17 Oct 2006

Fisher Fury Build Progress - April 2006

1st April

I'm not setting any targets this month, as external factors seem to play a part when I do. I'm tidying up and doing loads of small jobs, in preparation to start the engine. The plumbing is done and the fuel system is done. Final checks on the electrical system are under way.

2nd April

More tidying up and testing of the bike loom. Nearly there. I've got one query though. My 2003 loom has two unused connectors for an alarm system. To me, these appear to have to be connected to something in order for the rest of the loom to work but on the other hand, the alarm must be an option on the bike, so it not being present should not affect the operation of the electrics. Here's hoping!

3rd April

With the last few wires connected up and tested, there is nothing left to do but apply some power. I connected the bike loom power to the ignition switch, ensured the fuel pump switch was off and turned the ignition key. I then immediately turned it off again, as something was making a nasty noise. Brain engaged, I realised that it was probably only the EXUP motor, so I tried again. The noise was coming from the EXUP motor and it goes through a test cycle, which is a good sign. No smoke either .

I flicked the fuel pump switch and it immediately started running. I could hear it getting slower as it built up pressure and then after about 4 seconds it stopped as expected. Cool. And no petrol leaks too. Doubly cool.

So with engine start looking imminent, my plan is to follow this advice from the Bike Engined Cars Group :

  1. Remove the rocker cover and pour a couple of litres of oil down over the cams and then fill the motor to normal level. Replace the rocker cover.
  2. Remove the plugs and disconnect the fuel pump.
  3. Spin the motor over on the starter for 30 seconds or so and do this five or six times before refitting the plugs.
  4. Reconnect the fuel pump, turn on the ignition and make sure the fuel pump fires up, it should stop after a few seconds.
  5. Check around the fuel pipes, injectors and fuel rails for any signs of leakage.
  6. If there is no coolant already in the motor then fill it with distilled water (save the coolant for now) and leave the radiator cap off.
  7. Short out the radiator fan switch just to make sure it is working and as a cross check in case the temp gauge does not show when it is getting too hot, then reconnect it to the switch.
  8. With a fire extinguisher close to hand, fire it up.
  9. Once running just let it idle and blip the throttle to let it rev to 4-5K a few times.
  10. Let it warm up slowly while keeping a constant eye out for fuel / coolant / oil leaks.
  11. Do not run it for more than 4 or five minutes. Shut it down and let the oil drain down into the sump, take a look through the sight glass and check for condensation (a little is quite normal),
  12. Drain off some of the oil into a CLEAN container so you can take a good look at it. A little black is no problem but any sign of white and you need to start to worry.
  13. Next drain the water and refill with coolant, top up the oil and restart (no radiator cap still).
  14. Let it run for five minutes with occasional blips to throttle, this should help to bleed any air in the cooling system. Shut it down, and fit the radiator cap.
  15. If you have a source of ultra violet light it will be useful as the coolant shows up really easy under black light and is the best way to check for coolant leaks.
  16. Now its time to get the motor up to proper temperature so start it again and let it run as before but for longer this time. If you have a temp gauge you just need to keep an eye on it but DO NOT TRUST IT. Just let it get up to temperature in its own time (it will take a little while).
  17. If all looks good leave it running to get it hot (you can give it a few revs now if your confidence is getting better). If the temp gets up to red or the fans start to run then that is hot enough. Shut it off and let it cool down.
  18. Drain the oil into a CLEAN container while the engine is still good and warm, if if looks clean then just refill with some semi-synth quality bike oil (do not be tempted to use high performance car oils) if it is dirty then you should change the filter again, if it is white / milky then go and have a cry in your tea...
  19. Take the radiator cap off once it is cool and take a good sniff, can you smell petrol / exhaust fumes? If you look into the coolant is there a oil film on the top? These are typically signs of leaky head gaskets.


I was right in my initial analysis of the bike loom. The two spare connectors are for something called a 'cyclelock', which is the Yamaha alarm system and if it is not present, Yamaha provide some connectors with the right wires looped together. I don't have these, so the question is, which ones?

At this point you need to refer to the Haynes wiring diagram for the R1, as the factory service manual wiring diagram does not show the cyclelock or its connectors. From the Haynes manual wiring diagram, the pins from left to right are:

1. This goes to the ignition switch (as a blue/black wire). This is effectively earthed when the ignition switch is on, thus enabling part of the starter circuit logic.

2. This goes to the fused back-up power circuit.

3. This goes to the starter circuit cut-off relay assembly. This needs to be earthed for to enable part of the starter circuit logic.

4. This goes to the switched side of the engine start switch (other side goes to earth) and a blue/white wire to the ECU. This must be for the alarm to trigger if the start switch is bypassed.

5. This goes to the ECU (pin 43). This is shown as a blue/black wire on the ECU pin-out document I have but it is black in reality.

6. An earth wire.

7. Left indicator. This is not used in my loom and this wiring has been removed.

8. Right indicator. This is not used in my loom and this wiring has been removed.

9. Goes to horn and signal fuse. This is not used in my loom and this wiring has been removed.

The Haynes diagram associates wires 1 to 3 with the 3-way connector and wires 4 to 9 to the 6-way connector but, this is not an accurate representation from what I can see.

4th April


In theory, there are two loops required to bypass the cyclelock. All other wires should be cut out of left disconnected.


In practice, the wiring in my loom does not quite match that described above, but connected the wires that I had identified as being 1. and 5. and 3. and 4. and then turned the ignition key. Nothing unexpected happened so I pressed the engine start button to see if the starter motor would turn over. It does If the fuel pump had been on, it would have started I'm sure.

5th April

Rocker Cover

The rocker cover is removed by undoing a series of Allen keys but it needs the airbox and thermostat housing to be removed. I wasn't convinced that this is totally necessary and a quick call to Richard  further supported this view. When I'd recently looked within the clutch cover, there was plenty of oil covering all of the internals and if you can get enough oil pressure for long enough using the starter, oil should make its way up to the cams anyway.


Time to fill up the coolant system. I'm using normal tap water for now. I half filled the expansion tank, then filled the radiator as far as I can through the radiator cap. With the cap in place, I know that there is much air left in the system, because the thermostat housing is about 20cm above the radiator cap. To get over this I've got an air collection tank in my cooling system, which is at the highest point. I then topped up the cooling system until I could get no more air out. I'm going to need to do this again though.

Remove Plugs

I disconnected the over-plug coils and the HT coils just pull off/out to reveal the plugs below. I used a standard bike 17mm spark plug tool to remove these.

Oil Pressure

With the fuel pump switched off, I pressed the starter for 5 seconds. I had to let the starter run for quite a long time before any oil pressure registered on the DD2 unit. It then crept up to 6 or 7 psi but I left it running for a while as the battery seemed up to the job and I wanted to get a decent oil pressure and distribution around the engine, before starting it. I saw 15psi on the DD2 before I gave up and switched it off. There was now no oil visible in the oil window, despite it being just above the top of the window when I started. This is further evidence that oil is now well distributed around the engine.

Engine Start

I replaced the plugs, coils and airbox, remembering to connect up any sensors that were disconnected. Time to go for it! I switched on the ignition and waited for the fuel pump to stop. I then pressed the engine start button. It wasn't going to start. Another try, no start. Another (more persistent) go and after about five seconds, it started and then settled into a smooth idle. I've got no tacho feed connected yet so I don't know what rpm it idles at but, it sounds fairly slow for bike engine and too fast to be a car engine. I switched it off after 5 seconds. I had to do it again though, just to be sure it had really started and I wasn't imagining it. With the oil cold and thick, the DD2 unit was registering an oil pressure of 65psi. This seems very high and is down to the oil being cold apparently. The manifold was starting to get hot enough to cause the oil/grease on it to smoke, which is slightly disconcerting, so I switched it off again.

To get this far has been a huge, technical, logistical, emotional as well as financial challenge for me. This is one of the biggest personal projects and challenges I've ever taken on and has been a huge learning experience for me in many ways. Words cannot describe how pleased I am to have reached this milestone and my thanks go to all those that have supported and advised me. I'm happy!

Warm Up & Check Over

The next step is to get the engine fully up to temperature and to then check all is as expected. This is basically a test for leaks and integrity of the various seals and gaskets. I also need to drive out any condensation out of the engine and engine oil. To help with this, I've taken off the oil breather filter. I need to get the engine hot enough for the fan to cut in, something I also need to check the operation of. In getting to this temperature I will also be testing the coolant pipes and hose clips can handle the pressures generated.

6th April

Warm Up & Check Over

I'd added a touch more oil this morning because the level was less than half way up the sight glass. I also checked the hoses and hose clips and topped up my air collection tank, which was no longer full of water. There was very little water required to fill it up which proves the concept works and this design allowed me to remove most of the air in the system yesterday.

I am nervous doing this sort of test. I'm not sure what normal behaviour is, so it was with some trepidation that I started the engine and watched it get hotter and hotter. The Digidash2 unit displays oil pressure, oil temperature and water temperature by default, which is very convenient. I logged the readings at roughly 30 second intervals to see what sort of a pattern emerged. I occasionally revved the engine which may have added some spurious values.


At this point the fan came on and things started to cool down a bit. I never expected to see 125°C but my water temperature sensor is mounted directly into the head water outlet, so I guess it is going to read higher than a sensor stuck in the radiator. This caused the Digidash2 to display a 'Cta' warning, so I guess some re-configuration is required with my laptop.

The exhaust manifold has changed colour and now has a slight bronze tint to it. There is no longer any smoke coming off of it. The silencer exits onto the rear left tyre, causing a warm and damp patch. This is not good for predicable handling but the planned extension tail pipe, which takes the gases out through the side pod, will rectify this.

With the engine up to temperature, I took the opportunity to rev it a bit. I really must connect the tacho feed on the Digidash2, as I've got no idea what I was revving it too. I'm not used to bike engines though, so I'm sure I was no where near the red line, maybe 9000rpm at most. It sounds bloody fantastic! And very loud too. Not quite as loud as my brother's Striker, with its Crossflow engine and exposed carbs going at full chat though.

At the end of this little test cycle, there seemed to be about 2mm of water sitting on top of the oil in the sump and I was worried. This actually turned out to be aerated oil and after a short period of time it merged back into the rest of the oil. It looks very clean and clear, which is clearly a positive sign. At this point the level was exactly half way up the sight glass.

Q. Should the oil be getting aerated though?
A. Advice from the various Internet forums seems to suggest that some aeration of the oil is normal.

7th April

Tacho Feed

The Digidash2 requires a low voltage, negative switching feed to one of the coils. It doesn't matter which one, so I've tapped into the orange wire on the wiring diagram, which runs from the ECU, to the coil. The Digidash2 can be configured to map the correct number of ignition coil pulses for one engine cycle. It's one pulse for each engine revolution in this case.

Tidy Wiring

With the engine running, I started looking at tidying up the routing and wiring for the bike loom. There are also more wires that can be stripped out.

8th April

With the tacho feed connected I wondered what sort of revs I was achieving. I've set the shift lights to 11,500rpm with a delta of 300 (now 500). I didn't have the courage to rev the engine hard enough to get any of them to light though. It is just so manic and so noisy and being used to car engines, it doesn't seem possible that an engine can rev that quickly. I kept on pushing as hard as I dared, reving the engine higher and higher.

What have I done installing an R1 engine in my car? Looking at the max rpm recorded by the Digidash2, I only got up to a pathetic 8,300rpm! I can't imagine spinning the engine nearly 50% faster again.

Bit of a nightmare. A couple of friends turned up for dinner and I couldn't get the engine to start. Up till now it has started first time, every time. Depressing way to end the day.

9th April

Still wondering what I had done to stop the engine running, I started checking all the connectors and immediately found one that I'd left disconnected, whilst tidying up the wiring. Doh! Plugged it in and the engine started on first push of the engine start button.

Lots of little jobs done tidying up wiring, wrapping the wiring, etc. You need to get the level established at the normal max after the engine has been started and allowed to settle back down again. Overnight will allow it to settle completely. Make sure that the engine is horizontal, which it won't be if (like mine) the front ride-height is lower. Then overfill by 250ml. You will then get to know where the oil level is when the engine is idling (somewhere in the lower part of the window) and it will usually be at or slightly above the top of the window when left overnight and with the front of the engine, where the sight glass is, slightly lower than the back.IIRC the sightglass in mine was completely covered in oil and it was time to top up when a bubble if air appeared at the top.

10th April


With the engine start out of the way, it is time to think about some proper objectives for this month. My next goal is to have a car that I can drive (on a private bit of tarmac and minus the bodywork), to check it everthing works as planned and to bed things in.

This is going to leave me with something that looks a little bit like a road going Striker. This then leaves me with May to fit the bodywork, dash, lighting, etc. and to prepare for the SVA. This last bit is dependent on me finding the funds to buy the bodwork though .

12th April

Coolant / Antifreeze

With clean tap water only in the cooling system, I added drained 1.5L from the system and topped back up with antifreeze, to get a 50:50 mix. I used the Halfords 5-year stuff.

Oil Level

To quote Richard :

You need to get the level established at the normal max after the engine has been started and allowed to settle back down again. Overnight will allow it to settle completely. Make sure that the engine is horizontal, which it won't be if the front ride-height is lower.

Then overfill by 250ml. You will then get to know where the oil level is when the engine is idling (somewhere in the lower part of the window) and it will usually be at or slightly above the top of the window when left overnight and with the front of the engine, where the sight glass is, slightly lower than the back. IIRC the sightglass in mine was completely covered in oil and it was time to top up when a bubble if air appeared at the top.

18th April

Digidash & Tacho Feed

Spoke to Alistair (he designed the Digidash2) about the spurious rpm readings and updates I've been seeing. The unit should update the rpm display every 0.2s but mine seems to be nearer to 1.0s. I'd also noticed that the display is sometimes wrong and the reading can go down when the engine is revved higher.

It turns out that this is an R1 2002/2003 ECU/coil issue. The R1 is fairly unique in that the ECU switches the ground side of the low voltage to the coils. Others have seen this and Alistair has some scope traces to design a solution for the fuel injected R1 ECU solution. Some sort of passive or active adaptor is going to be needed between the coil take off and the Digidash2.

19th April

Tidy Wiring

I've got a chassis plate with a large hole in it for the bike loom bits to pass through. It's been a very tight squeeze to get the connectors through this hole but, it is essential to get the wiring tidy and out of the way.

21st April


More tidying up of the wiring. I am now having to cut wires and reconnect them to get them to run through the right places.

Digidash & Tacho Feed

I'm going to be a triallist for the ETB R1 Digidash2 solution which should arrive in the post very soon.

22nd April

Just about finshed the tidying of the bike wiring. Everything seems to route prtty well and I've not had to lengthen any wires to the bike connectors. I've shortened a few though.

24th April

Many small odd jobs and checks. Preparing to fix the chassis panels next.

29th April

Having moved and fixed just about every piece of wire in the bike loom, I thought I'd better check the engine still runs. It does, so I captured it on video.

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