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Last page update was 28 Mar 2007

Fisher Fury Build Progress - October 2006

1st October

It was on the 21st of October 2005 that I picked up my chassis and started my build. It would be nice to finish within the year but I'm not optomistic. I have some annual leave booked this month which might help.

Boot Floor

Bonded and riveted the boot floor in place. The back wall is white because this off-cut of aluminium sheet came powder coated in this colour on one side.

The two sockets on the tunnel plate are locking audio connectors. I'm using these to power accessories and one of them is to power my bullet camera, which is mounted on the roll hoops.

Lower Fillet Plates

Bonded and riveted the lower fillet plates in place. I wish I'd done these when I did the floor.

Air Filter

With the new air filter on, I started the engine to see how much louder it was, without the R1 airbox. I'm not sure that it is actually any louder but, it certainly sounds better. There is a lovely induction roar now. A few of my neighbours came out to see what all the noise was . I need to finish this car and actually drive it.

3rd October

Side Repeaters

These are simply stuck on the main tub. The wires go through a 3mm hole. I've fixed the wires to the main tub and routed them up behind the dash. The are attached to the main loom via 2-way connectors.

Bulkhead Holes

Cut holes in the bulkhead for the steering column and paddle shift linkage. To get the positioning right, I estimated the location and drilled a small pilot hole. Using line of sight, I got one in the right place after 2 or 3 goes. I then drilled the right one out with a hole saw, 44mm for the steering column and 22mm for the paddle shift (rose joint has to pass through it).

Upper Fillet Plates

Fabricated the upper left plate from some 1.5mm aluminium sheet. This holds the side pods in place by fixing it to the upper chassis rail. They run from the front bulkhead, forward to the front edge of the sidepods. I had to cut a couple of notches to go round the welds.

The left one is in two pieces to go either side of the exhaust manifold. These are riveted to the chassis. The side pods will be removable so I'll use 5mm bolts into captive nuts on the inside of the sidepod.

7th October

Spent a fair bit time doing odd jobs. Fully fixed and sealed the boot floor. Fixed the upper fillet plates. P-clipped the front wiring loom.

Drilled, painted and wired up the adaptor box for my in-car video device.

10th October

Spend a bit of time trying to work out the pins on the H4 headlight bulbs. Amazingly, this information does not seem to exist on the Internet.

11th October

Managed to create and wrap most of the wiring loom under the bonnet. Just need to test it, mount the front indicators, add connectors and fix it all in place. I've changed some of the wiring colours on my wiring diagram, to use up the colours that I have left over and avoid buying more wire.

For what it's worth, my web site build tool tells me that this site has now got to 700 files exactly (which equates to 44Mbytes). The other 268 full size photos (which I have not published) add another 128Mbytes. When I've finally finished, the whole lot will be made freely available on a CD to anyone that is interested.

12th October

Fixed the front indicators to the car and completed a bit more of the front lighting loom. I've bitten the bullet and fitted the front indicators, even though I'm not really keen on them.

13th October

Finished front wiring loom but have left connectors off for now as I'm not totally sure of the bonnet position when closed and fully open. Tested lights and they all work as expected.

Tidied up car and did a few more odd jobs in preparation for the interior panel fixing. The bodywork comes off tomorrow for the last time. Sat in the car and started it for the first time today. Can't leave it running for long though as there is no exhaust hole in the left side pod yet and the exhaust fumes fill the cockpit.

16th October

Fuel Tank Vent

Fixed the fuel tank vent to the boot rear wall. This thing lets air into the tank as the fuel rushes out, but stops fuel leaking out when the car is upside down. Let's hope I never get to test the second feature! My fuel filler cap is vented but under hard use, the R1 can drink down fuel too quickly for the cap and a too low a pressure in the tank will cause implosion.

Interior Panels

This is a job I've been keeping for a completely free day. It took me most of a day to fix the panels into the car and my hands are suffering from all that rivet setting. The ends of most of my fingers are bruised from the recoil or follow through of the tool handles. It is now very painful to type!

I started with the rear tunnel sides as they underlap the rear bulkhead panels. The rear bulkhead panels were next, followed by the rear outer panels. You have to remember to not rivet where the roll-bar sits and where the forward panels overlap the rear ones. Getting access for a rivet setting tool was also quite tricky in places. With hindsight, I would not have drilled a couple of rivet holes quite so close to some of the chassis rails.

With this job done the interior of the car feels much narrower and getting into the car is a bit more of a challenge. One plus point though, is that unlike my brother's Striker, I'm not actually squeezed by the panels and chassis rails.

18th October

Roll Bar

Bolted these in over the rear chassis panels and drilled the 8mm holes in the side rails so that I can final fix them.


My next job is to source some seats and harnesses.

Handbrake Cable Routing

I need to fabricate some brackets to stop the handbrake cable fouling the suspension (red circle). These will mount to the chassis rail and clamp the cable onto the rubber sleeve (green circle).

21st October

It's been one whole year of building as of today!

Roll Hoops

Tidied up and bolted in the roll hoops for the last time.

Brake Light Switch

Fabricated the two brackets from some soft aluminium to get the distances and placement right, then started to fabricate them from something more solid and wire the switch up as planned. Pushing on the pedal moves the bracket away from the microswitch and opens up the contacts.

Odd Jobs

Did loads of other odd jobs today in readiness for the final bodywork fitting:

I've got a couple more hours worth of work to do before I fit the bodywork properly. Realistically, I should be able to book the SVA test in November. Depending on how long it takes to come through, I should have a road legal Fury R1 this side of Christmas.

22nd October

Hand Brake Cable Supports

Fixed the first handbrake cable bracket. Whilst this seems to solve the problem, I've noticed a slight flaw in this plan. As the suspension goes down, it obviously pulls on the cable. I'm not sure how much movement is normal and if this is going to be a real problem. For now I've fixed the cable using tie wraps so that they snap if it really is a problem. The original plan was to use stainless steel jubilee clips.

More correctly, the bracket needs to be fixed to the upright and looking back at Chris Bradley's site, I can see he used two brackets, with one of them on the upright. Time for a rethink then!

24th October

Brake Light Switch

Having sorted out the position of the various bits and pieces, I fabricated some more robust mounts and spray painted them.

Power Commander

Dug out my Power Commander to see how it fits into the scheme of things. This box allows you to fully map the fuel and ignition curves on your PC. The key thing for me is that I have a map for it, which will allow my car to pass the SVA test. Later on you can add a map to optimise engine performance.

Installation is going to be really simple as it basically breaks in between two pairs of connectors in the engine bay and has enough lead length to go through the bulkhead, to allow the unit to sit next to my ECU. The Power Commander takes its power via the connectors but has a separate earth wire that I will earth behind the dash.


Tim Hoverd  has kindly provided some advice on harnesses. I'm now looking at some Schroth  'Profi II-6' 6-point harnesses. These seem to be very well made (the most important feature to me), very comfortable and easy to adjust and reasonably priced. They also have a clever rotary buckle arrangement which is easy to use.

28th October


Revisited some of the routing of the electrics from the scuttle area into the engine bay. The Power Commander has introduced a lot of new connectors and I want to tidy this bit up some more.

29th October

Power Commander

Installed the software on my laptop and a zero map to check the engine still works with this in line.

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