RJC Fury R1 Design Build Drive Gallery Video Contact Me Misc
Last page update was 28 Mar 2007

Fisher Fury Build Progress - February 2007

1st February

The goal for this month is to book the SVA test and be ready to put the car on a trailer and take it there.

Some good news. Daz  used the latest map I have for the Power Commander and it passed an MOT emissions test in his Striker R1. He had a proper catalyst on the car though, so I may have to borrow it for my SVA test. Not so good was the figures registered on the noise level meter. I know a Striker is louder because it has a lot less bodywork but, I may have to revisit my air box design prior to the SVA test.

4th February

Fitted the rings for the harness to clip on and test fitted the driver's harness. The crutch straps needed extending to the maxmium length but, the coloured tape on the seat is to mark some better/shorter routes for them. The shoulder straps needed shortening and the waist straps were about right.

Made a template for the rear access cover and bolted it to the main tub. This will cover four 130mm diameter holes in the main tub to allow easier access to the electrics, bulbs, etc. It seems a bit extreme but it is the only way to get access. The other reason for this approach is that I think the access cover will improve the look of the car from the rear.

Bonnet Support

Fitted the bonnet support. I've used Araldite to fix a metal bracket to the inside of the bonnet. The tape shown in the picture is holding it in place while it cures. I will add some fibreglass matting to spread the load wider later. The bonnet will be 'lined' with a protective paint later. A rubber grommet keeps the stay in place. Had to be careful that the front wheel doesn't foul this when stowed and the steering is on full lock.

5th February


Started work on the passenger seat and then decided to rebuild the drivers seat to match. Having installed the harnesses, I wanted to change the base slightly, to enable better routing of the harness under the seat. I also used 9mm MDF for a stronger seat base and used more supports underneath. The seats are also slightly narrower, to give provide clearance for the harnesses. I've also used a larger cut-out at the front to allow the crotch harness to sit better. The exposed wooden parts are now painted black.

8th February

Excellent news! Daz  got his Striker R1 throughy the SVA test today, without any major issues. It was very close on the emissions and noise tests though.

9th February

Picked up some more seat foam and vinyl seat covering. My local Fabric Warehouse no longer sells it in black, so my new seats are now both dark blue. Also picked up some aluminium sheet for my rear access panel and some other bits to fabricate a few more brackets. Not so good is that fact that my local and friendly powder coater has gone out of business

10th February

Remove Main Tub

Disconnected all the lighting connectors. Removed the main tub for the last time, for some trimming prior to attaching to the chassis.

Trimmed down the leading edge of the scuttle. There was quite a bit to come off here so I started with a jigsaw and smoothed off with a rotary file. Also removed a bit more material on the inside to better clear the chassis in places.

Drilled the four access holes in the rear lower edge. These will be covered by an aluminium panel.

Enlarged the hole for the steering rack.

Brake Bias Bar

Whilst the main tub was off, I took the opportunity to use the improved access and locked the brake bias bar in place for SVA test. This is achieved by drilling a hole through a nut and the bar at the extreme ends. Washers are then used to fill the gap. The means that the hole drilled in the bias bar is far away from the bit that gets stressed. I've temporarily stuck rivets through the holes, to be replaced by split pins.

Following advice from Tim Hoverd , I've also sourced some roll-pins just in case the SVA inspector doesn't like the split pins.

Power Commander Location

Moved the Power Commander to somewhere with better access.


Replaced temporary bolts on the hand brake cable guide with button head stainless items.

Main Tub

Put the main tub back on the car to see what else I need to do before the final fix. The front edge is now nicely aligned with the chassis rail. The access holes work well and allow me to get access to the wiring and connectors at the rear.

11th February

Main Tub In-Fills

Using my MDF templates, I made up some flat pieces of fibreglass sheet by setting it on a piece of glass. Once set these can then be bonded in place using more matting and resin.

Whilst I had the GRP and resin out, I added a disk to the inside of the bonnet to strengthen the bonnet support mount.

Rear Access Panel

The access cover itself is 1000 x 150mm but this panel extends by a further 250mm to go under the car and fix to the chassis. There are two fold lines in the panel. It will be powder coated or painted black. It covers up the access holes I've drilled, stops the lower edge of the bodywork flexing about and also keeps the back of the main tub aligned.

I've put fixed 3mm rivnuts into the bodywork to bolt this panel in place. This works really well and looks very good from the rear of the car. Need to paint it or powder coat it now.

Chassis Plate

Forgotten I had this in my box of bits. Fixed this above the drivers footwell. It's required for the SVA test. At one point I had 15 boxes filled with bits in the garage. It's now down to two part-full ones . Oh, and a box of spare / unused bits.

R1 Expansion Tank

Made brackets to fit this properly. It was held on with tie-wraps. It might get powder coated but it will be post-SVA now.

Main Tub

Drilled all the holes required to fix the main tub to the chassis. The next and final major task which is waiting for a prolonged spell of free time combined with the right weather.

12th February

Bit more work on the seats. Picked up my loaned SVA friendly exhaust and catalyst. The material for my new dash arrived today. Also borrowed a noise meter from a friend.

SVA Test

Daz  used a chap called Paul Jepson  to sort out the paperwork for the SVA test and I'm going to do likewise. Spoke to Paul today to understand what information he needs. I'm looking for a date early in March to take the SVA test. There's nothing like a looming date to focus the mind!

13th February

Polished up and started to undercoat the rear access panel. I'm going to spray paint it.

Dash Radius

I bought a piece of ABS carbon effect plastic for the new dash in the end, as real carbon fibre was just too expensive. I was hoping that I could form a radius on the lower edge by using a heat gun to get the plastic flexible enough to curve it around a 25mm rod. Tests showed that I can't apply enough heat along the whole edge at once, to get it soft enough to bend.

Plan B is to form a rounded base to the dash by using a 15mm radius, hardwood quarter circle moulding from the local DIY store. I glued two half lengths together to form a 120cm long length of semi-circle. This will be painted black and aligned with the front edge of the dash. It's going to be held in place by brackets underneath the dash. It needs to be cut to go either side of the centre console.


The SVA test dictates that these must not be smooth. For the throttle pedal, I simply stuck some 25mm wide, self adhesive rubber strip to the pedal as it was also 25mm wide. The other two pedals are a bit more difficult. Having search through my loft and garage, the best material I could find for this was a 3mm thick, rubber mouse mat. I cut two pieces to shape and bonded them to the pedal faces using Evostick Timebond. If they 'fall off' after the SVA test, I don't mind. The rubber strip on the throttle will have to go though, as it removes the direct contact and tactile feel from the throttle pedal.

14th February

The weather is against me . More spray painting on the rear access panel.

Roll Bar Cover

Stuck a couple of bits of extra thick pipe insulation on the parts of the roll bar that the harnesses go over. The main reason for this is to raise the height from which the harnesses come over the shoulder as this is tested during the SVA test. The other reason is to stop the harness rubbing through the powder coating.

15th February

More spray painting.

16th February

More spray painting.

17th February

Final Fix Main Tub

Bonded and riveted the main tub in place. Made sure there were no gaps along the front edge and down the sides of the scuttle to let water in. Put rivets in along the front edge and also along the chassis side rails, inside the car.

There are a few gaps between the main tub and the chassis rails which I will need to fill somehow. For now I've covered them with white tape.

Bond Main Tub To Boot Floor

The next job was to bond the boot floor to the main tub, having checked the alignment of the main tub at the rear of the car first. I've been using the outer edge of the rear tyres as my reference point because the bodywork has to cover the wheel plan for SVA. I'm planning to fit wider wheels post SVA and it would look odd if the gap was uneven on each side. I had to take the wheels off and cover up the hubs and brakes, so that no resin dripped on them.

Bond Main Tub To Boot Floor

I used some 60mm strips of GRP matting to bond the main tub to the sides of the boot floor. I put a spacer in between the floor sides and the tub overhang first, to give a tidier finish. This is a horrible job as fibreglass matting won't flex into the corners until it is soaked in resin. I got through a lot of disposable latex gloves.

Main Tub In-Fills

Trimmed and taped my fibreglass infills in place from behind.

Using some resin and fibreglass matting I fixed them in place and filled in the gaps around them. This doesn't look too good right now but the plan is to cover the inside surfaces of the main tub at some point. Not sure exactly what I will use but 3M carbon fibre film is an option.

Handbrake Cable Brackets

Because of the location of the calipers and suspension parts, the handbrake cables rest on the wishbones. Not only is this noisy but it is also an SVA failure point. I'd previously looked at fabricating brackets to solve this and had also fixed one to the chassis but, as the calipers move relative to the chassis, the brackets need to be fixed to the upright.

In the end, I made a simple loop bracket which bolts on using the suspension bolt. I had to be careful that these don't foul the wheel.

Rear Suspension Bolts

One of these on each side is not quite long enough to get threads showing past the nyloc nut. I replaced them with some new 80mm x 12mm bolts, whilst I had access.

Rear Access Panel

I've finally finished painting the rear access panel. Five coats of undercoat and four in black.

And fitted it to the car. I think this idea has worked quite well. The panel breaks up the expanse of white fibreglass a bit.

18th February

Exhaust Side Pod

I need to cut a hole in the front face of the left sidepod, ensure a good airflow though it. The exhaust gets very hot otherwise and could set fire to the car.

Cut a template and used this to cut out the front face. It is very thin fibre glass so some of it could be cut with scissors. I tidied it up with a rotary file. As it is so thin, I'm going to use a shaped plate to clamp the mesh in place.

Cut out some mesh to fill the whole and an aluminium mounting plate to go inside the sidepod. Drilled through these and bolted them to the inside front face of the side pod with 5mm stainless bolts. The mesh is to stop leaves and other things entering the sidepod and catching fire on the exhaust.

Marked up the rear end of the left side pod and cut out a large hole to let the hot air out. The tape is to protect the fibreglass from the base of the jigsaw. Tidied the edges up with a rotary file. I don't need a grille on the rear end as the airflow through the sidepod should stop anything entering.

SVA Exhaust & Catalyst

I've borrowed an exhaust and car catalyst to see me through the SVA test. The catalyst in the R1 can is simply not big enough to get the car through the emissions part of the test. It has a different mounting point, so I made up a bracket to fix this to the side of the car. It is fixed with 5mm bolts into rivnuts, fixed to the chassis rail. The positioning of this bracket made it a lot easier to fabricate and mount than the one holding the R1 can on!

With the SVA exhaust on, I cut the exit hole for the exhaust end. Note that this exhaust has a nice SVA friendly, rolled end. The hole position is determined by careful measuring as you only get one chance to get it right with a hole saw. The DIY first law applies - measure twice, cut once.

A round exhaust going through at an angle really requires an oval hole, so I may reshape this with a rotary file, once I've marked the outer face accordingly. The exhaust side pod needs to be lined with a heat reflective material too.

Not much left to do now. The dash and bonnet catches are the main things left.

Then its time to install the seats and harnesses and go for a test run.

19th February

Side Pods

Tidied up the fibreglass where the exhaust goes down into the side pod.

Lined the passenger/exhaust side pod with heat reflective cloth. This is stuck to the GRP using Evostik Timebond.

Added a strip of foam along the edge of the floor extension that the side pods sit on. Bolted the sidepods in so that I could measure up for the bonnet catches.


Cut length of the carbon fibre effect ABS sheet 225mm high. Using the temporary MDF dash as a template, I marked out the the holes to be drilled. I then spent ages trimming the ends to get the thing to fit. The new dash is a lot wider than the MDF and had to be trimmed to fit inside the scuttle curves. Before I fitted this, I had one last look around behind it and tidied a few bits up. This plastic is a bit too flexible so I may have to attach the dash along the top edge too.

Looks more like a car now.

20th February

Bonnet Catches

I'm not totally sure that these will pass the SVA test as they are, so I've removed the wire puller and made some tidy rubber inserts for them using my much re-used rubber mouse mat and a rotary file to shape them. This means opening the bonnet is not an easy job but the catches have no sharp edges or wire hanging off.

If I've got time, I'm going to try and make the rubber covers a bit better by incorporating the PIP pin pull wire into them.

Fitted the outer parts of the catches to the main tub. This requires the drilling of a 20mm diameter hole. I've got four catches to fit but I'm only fitting the rear two for the SVA test.

21st February

Bonnet Stay

Mounted a 15mm pipe clip on the scuttle to hold the bonnet stay in place. Lined it with some foam tape to ensure a snug and rattle free fit.

22ng February

Arranged access to a local airfield today. I need to drive the car on some private tarmac/concrete in order to bed the brakes in and to check for leaks and rattles.

Borrowed an alignment tool from my work motor club to check the tracking.

26rd February

Chassis Plate

I had to resolve one issue before submitting my SVA application form. The chassis number on my chassis plate is too long. It needs to be 17 digits but mine was 18. An e-mail to Fisher Sportscars  has confirmed that there was a mistake on my chassis plate. I've borrowed some letter/number punches from work to make up a new one.

Posted my SVA application form off

25th February


I'd always guessed that my tracking was a little off by the noise the front tyres made when pushing the car out of the garage. The use of the correct tool showed it to be a long way off the scale. Using the alignment tool, I adjusted the tracking and it is now very close 1.5° of toe-in. An immediate difference was noticed. It is very much easier to push the car in and out of the garage now.

28th February

Air Capture Tank

Mounted this properly with a bracket, allowing space for possible air box.

Throttle Cable

P-clip around this and bolted to the front edge of the airbox plate.

Side Pods

Propped the car up on ramps to do a number of jobs underneath the car. Drilled through the sill plates and the lower part of the sidepods, to add the last fixings. Fixed some steel rivnuts for some 5mm bolts.

Rear Access Panel

While the car was up in the air, I fitted three rivnuts into the chassis under the differential to bolt the front edge of this panel in place.

Bonnet Catches

Before I can align and fit the inside part of the catches, the edge of the bonnet needs to be trimmed back with a rotary file, to ensure the lower edges are flush with the top face of the sidepod. I've also added a foam strip along this scuttle edge, so I've allowed for this too.

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