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Last page update was 01 Mar 2006

Fisher Fury Build Progress - February 2006

1st February

Only one goal this month. I want to get the engine running. Anything else is a bonus.


My schedule still looks realistic:

Jobs To Do This Month

If I manage to achieve all of this, then I have a car that drives!

2nd February

I've got a friend at work who is currently building an R1 engined RAW Striker. Daz  has helped me significantly on the cooling system design and is further ahead with his build than I am. We are placing a joint order with Bailey Morris next week. We will get a small discount by ordering two propshafts.


Remounted the radiator lower down, to ensure it will fit under the bonnet. The mounts double up as mounts for the horns. I'm going to get the steel mounts powder coated in black next week.

With the radiator on, I turned my thoughts to the cooling system plumbing. I had a design in mind for this but I've changed it significantly. Mainly because I can now see that I can re-use many of the rubber pipes that came on the engine and make my life so much simpler. It's also going to work out cheaper.

Throttle Bodies

I also put the throttle bodies on to check the fuel pipe positioning. It is going to work out really well and I might even be able to re-use the bike throttle cables. There are two cables though, I guess for a pull-pull twist grip, which forces the throttle open and shut.

Bike Engine Loom

I started by laying the loom over the engine to get some rough idea of positioning. Some bits are fairly fixed in position, like the fuel injector connectors. Having done this, there seemed remarkably little to connect to the engine. There were also some bits that are not going to be in the right place because of the way the loom is wrapped, so I removed some of the wrapping. Once you start this, there are obvious benefits in terms of the new found flexibility in positioning things. There are also some large sections that are clearly redundant, so I removed all of the coverings on the loom completely.

I've not really got the confidence to start cutting major amounts of redundant wire out yet but, I did remove a few obvious wires and connectors. I reckon that the bike engine loom will be about half the original weight by the time I've finished. My plan is to get the engine running and then remove bits from this working position, one at a time.

3rd February

I need somewhere to mount the regulator, ECU and fuse box (+ a few other bits and pieces). The approach that Chris  took looks like it will work well and also positions things well. The bent aluminium plate sits under the scuttle on the left-hand side.

then installed the battery in front of the engine but I'm going to sit it on the chassis rails (with a battery tray) just in front of the passenger footwell. My only concern is that it is about 6" from the manifold. I may add a small heat shield.

4th February

Bought some aluminium tubing from B&Q and started plumbing up the engine and radiator. I need to place an order with Silicon Hoses  before I can progress any further.

Positioned the fuel pump and filter with a view to making some mounting brackets for them.

5th February

Started by cleaning the chassis. The trip on a trailer had picked up more salt spray than I realised and I had lots of cleaning to do. Some of the holes drilled in the chassis for the panels had started to rust, so I painted them with Hammerite.

Fuel Filter & Mount

Fabricated some fuel filter mounts and added some rivnuts to the chassis. These are powder coated.

Fuel Pump Mount

Fabricated a fuel pump mount and bolted to the chassis. These two brackets that are rivetted to the chassis, to allow four rubber bobbins to be fixed to the car. A cradle holds the fuel pump and is supported by these four bobbins. I took this approach because the chassis is not wide enough at any one point to allow me to fit four bobbins and I need four to stop the pump moving around too much.


Measured up for the propshaft.

6th February

Sorted out the throttle/accelerator cable and fixings. I need to find a new, longer throttle cable.

7th February

Ordered my hoses and clips to finish the plumbing. Dropped off my fuel tank straps, fuel filter mounts and fuel pump mounts to be powder coated.

Throttle Cable

Found a suitable throttle cable and outer sheath in my local cycle shop.

8th February

Clutch Cable

Started to have a look at the clutch cable. I ended up making one by shortening the one that came with the bike engine and by using a bit from the left over return throttle cable. I need to determine the optimum position to fix the cable to the pedal, so I'll have a word with Kerry , to see what Richard  did.

Clutch Cable Mount

The engine end of the clutch cable needs to be mounted somewhere solid and also provides the right pull angle for the cable. The only way I could see of doing this was to bolt a bracket to the engine mount. This will require two 5mm holes in a very solid part of the mount (5mm thick x 25mm wide steel), so I'm not concerned about weakening the mount. This picture shows my first attempt (temporarily clamped to the mount) in 3mm aluminium but this may flex too much and I will probably make something for permanent use in 5mm steel.

Cooling System

My pipes and clips arrived from Silicon Hoses  so I put together most of the cooling system. Should be able to finish it this week.

9th February

Gear Shift

Started to have a look at the gear shift cable. I removed the gear lever arm on the engine and put it back at a angle which would allow me to drive it with a cable or rod system. As I've attached it now, pulls to the left would be up through the gears and pulls to the right would be down through the gears. This is important because I want a pull on the right of the paddle shift lever to be up a gear and a pull to the left to be down a gear.

I had originally planned to use a push-pull cable that goes up to my paddle shift lever but, having looked at the angles and distances involved, I now think that a direct rod and lever connection would be easier and would provide a much better feel.

A rod would need to run down from the left side of the paddle shift lever, to a 90° pivot, sat on top of the drivers footwell. This will convert the forward (up a gear) movement to left/right movement. This will then connect via a rod to the gear shift arm on the engine, which moves from left to right. I need 1:1 gearing in the pivots and I can choose the final gearing by selecting the position of the pivot point on the paddle shift lever. This is a simple and elegant solution which requires four 6mm female rod ends (6mm bore). I ordered from Autosport Bearings  and can't really progress this now until they arrive.

The pivot will be an 8mm bolt, bolted up through the footwell roof and through a 5mm thick, triangular aluminium plate. This will clamped on either side by two 22mm diameter bearings (as used in skateboard wheels), to ensure it rotates smoothly.

10th February

Picked up a few bits from the powder coaters. I can now finish fitting the fuel pump, filter and tank. Also popped in to see my local aluminium fabricator (Lee Crisp) for a few offcuts of aluminium plate.

11th February

Fitted the fuel pump mounts to the chassis.

Drilled two 5mm holes in the engine mount at 30mm spacing, for the clutch cable bracket and bolted it to the engine mount. I need to order many more nuts and bolts. I'm still not convinced this solution is strong enough but I'll go with it for now and fabricate something stronger, using the same mounting holes, if it isn't up to the job.

Fitted the self-adhesive, closed cell foam to my powder coated fuel tank straps and fitted the fuel tank.

12th February

Fabricated the parts for my fuel pump cradle. These will be powder coated.

Bent some aluminium plate to form a mounting point for the fuse box, ECU and other bits and pieces. This is fixed using the earth bolt welded to the chassis and three 5mm rivnuts at the other end, so that it is removable (it has to come out to rivet the chassis panels in place). This is bolted to the underside of the front chassis rail so that bits mounted on top of it will not foul the GRP forming the scuttle.

12th February

Prepared a load of bits to be powder coated. My rod-ends arrived in the post. Ordered some nuts and bolts. Arranged to drop some bits off to be powder coated tomorrow.


Fabricated a battery plate and clamps.

13th February

Dropped bits off at powder coaters.

15th February

Very little progress over the last few days as I've been on leave, rebuilding my ensuite bathroom. Managed to find time to connect the paddle shift lever to the engine gear arm. I've not found a way to fit my bearings to the pivot yet but even with the plate pivoting on the bolt, the action is very direct and has an excellent feel. I've built it using bits lying around but now that the movement and measurements are resolved, I will replace it with better engineered and lighter parts.

17th February

Been looking at in-car video recording again.

18th February

Started making the gear shift mechansim from proper bits.

22nd February

My various brackets have been powder coated, so I can get on with things again.

26th February

Bugger all progress in the last week or so. I've been spending every minute in the ensuite bathroom, trying to put it all back together! Only the tiling and grouting to do now and a thousand small odd jobs of course :-(

Installed the radiator with the newly powder coated brackets.

Put the pump carrier together. The tie-wraps will be replaced with hose clips.

Installed the battery using my newly powder coated battery plate, brackets and clamps. From here, I made a serious start on putting the wiring together, starting with the fuse box and then progressing the non-bike engine electrics, to and from the dash switches. I need to sort this side of it out as I need the Digidash operational and all the sensors working before I attempt to start the engine.

27th February

More electrics. Crimping and soldering all these connections is taking ages!

27th February

And yet more electrics! I've now got to the point where I've progressed the car loom as far as I can. I need to place another order with VWP. Moving on to the bike loom now.

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